Tip or Die: The Death of Al's Bar
(Or, Al's Barcalypse Now Redux)
By Falling James
Death has been kind, in a way, to Al's Bar. In
they-only-love-you-when-you're-gone L.A. (and "Al" spelled backward is
"L.A." -- how's that for an omen?), a place isn't considered a landmark
until after it's torn down, a (de)construct of fuzzy memory's revisionist
sentimentality.
Although "they" (or "it," however you want to refer to Magnum Properties,
the new
owners and treacherous curators) haven't (yet) taken a literal wrecking
ball to the
venerable 100-year-old brick building that housed the American Hotel and
Al's Bar, the
ghosts have fled, sucked away in the draft of closing doors.
Lumbering behemoth the Los Angeles Times (someone must've clued 'em in),
which never saw any need to acknowledge the existence of Al's Bar or the
unusual, difficult-to-neatly-explain bands that played there during the
past
20 years, not even in its listings, weighed in with a too-little, too-lame
photo and article about the closure, as if to tease its readers: Here was
a
genuinely unique, unpretentious yet artistically tolerant and ambitious,
scummy/heavenly dive, a Bukowskian place of great magic and even some
mystery, that you
could have known about, if we'd thought you could've handled it, if we
hadn't
instead burdened you with two decades of Robert Hilburn's redundant and
condescending attempts to explain U2 to third graders. But the Times'
studied
avoidance of Al's Bar was a lucky thing, creatively, for the rest of us.
As with
the Sports Illustrated jinx (or a reverse Midas touch), by the time the
Times catches up to something
(whether it's bands like the White Stripes, or the "newly hip" Silver
Lake, or Latinos in general, or the ongoing transgressions of the LAPD -
oops!
We're still waiting for the Times to document the latter!), it's always
too late or bad luck or both.
In a way, this is all Charlie's fault. These things happen in threes. The
first disaster was former Millie's Diner busboy Charlie Hutchinson's
decision to move to Seattle last year, causing Popdefect to break up,
which upset the subtle balance of the universe centered around Al's. In
Popdefect's two-decade career, the mutant surf-pop trio never came close
to becoming famous, yet always stayed together (after going nowhere, why
stop now?). It was tempting to think that Popdefect, the quintessential
Al's Bar band, would last forever. The second tragedy was the death from
cancer, earlier this year, of Frank Parker, a talented and kindhearted
homeless artist who used to sell "frangs" (unique bracelets and necklaces
he fashioned out of telephone wire) to the bar's patrons. It figures that
at Al's, the locus of what's now dubbed the "Downtown Arts District," even
the homeless were great artists.
There was always a strong arts connection to Al's Bar, going back to 1979,
when founder Marc Kreisel took over the former truckers bar, and had pals
like Gronk, Skip Arnold and Roger Hermann slap paint on the walls and
ceilings, which were later slathered further with several generations of
anonymous hieroglyphics, graffiti and band stickers. For the 1984
Olympics, Dustin Schuler somehow bolted the shell of a single-engine
airplane to the hotel's exterior, where it remained, defying gravity and
earthquakes, for several years. There was even a time when actual artists
could afford to live in the "artists' lofts" in the nearby huddle of
apartments, or in the American Hotel itself, with its narrow, closet-size
rooms above the ground-floor bar. Al's maintained the spirit of the old
Brave Dog, one of the first places downtown where the arts world
intersected with the then-new punk scene, by having booking agents Lizzie
Balogh (and later, Toast and Jim Miller) schedule arty and experimental
groups you'd never hear on the Sunset Strip.
I'm still in denial. Writing this obitchuary about Al's has been
difficult, something I keep lazily putting off, since it forces me to
acknowledge that my favorite bar is . . . gone. Al's Bar, the Tropicana
Motel, the Cathay de Grande, the Bay Theater, POP, the Starwood, the Vex
-- L.A. always devours its coolest hangouts. "They tore it down/my last
connection/that's the way it always happens/they're not very sentimental
in L.A.," I wrote in a recent Leaving Trains song, referring to the
Tropicana, but the sentiment also applies to Al's. Just about every night
lately, after I'm home from work and ready to go out, my first thought is
"Who's playing at Al's?" followed by the dull realization in my stomach
that I have nowhere to go now. I'm banned from almost every other
nightclub in L.A., but Al's never turned the power off on my band midsong,
or had its bouncers beat up our peaceful fans, or forced its bands to pay
to play (or, for that matter, encouraged the anti-intellectual heavy metal
careerists who nearly destroyed the rest of the local music scene in the
'80s). Unlike Toe's Tavern or Luna Park (both defunct, so there is some
karma and justice, I suppose), Al's Bar never refused me admission because
I was wearing a dress. Since no one clique ever dominated the environment,
everyone -- punks, art students, indie and pop geeks, rockabilly
revivalists, etc. -- felt at home at Al's. Well, everyone except yuppies,
who were freaked out by the sight of actual homeless people panhandling
outside.
I'm going to miss smoking out in the small back patio. I'm going to miss
Stay-C Little, the best bartender in town. I'm going to miss seeing the
typically atypical groups (Paper Tulips, W.A.C.O., the Ray-O-Vacs,
Christian Death, Redd Kross, Backbiter, Girl George, Betty Blowtorch, L7,
Gun Club, Lydia Lunch, Tammy Faye Starlite & the Angels of Mercy, Project
K, the Dagons, Tex & the Horseheads, the Dickies, Arthur Lee & Love, the
Beautys, Texas Terri, the Humpers, even Fearless Leader, etc.) that
performed there. I'm going to miss the way the Imperial Butt Wizards and
the Caltransvestites used to light everything on fire, hurling bottle
rockets and stuffed animals into the audience during their
glam/performance art three-ring-circus spectacles. I'm going to miss the
rust-colored brass hearts hammered on the looming outer walls of the
hotel, lining up to the roof, where they jumped off into space like stars.
I'm going to miss seeing the little slits of those stars, framed by the
hotel's walls in the patio, a rare gulp of the natural in the middle of
Skid Row squalor. I'm going to miss every scratch of graffiti on the
walls, the Twilight Zone pinball machine (even though I never was able to
trigger the gumball prize), the beer-stained pool table, JoJo the genial
and nonjudgmental soundman, and doorman Cliff, who never took any shit
from anyone. I'm going to miss all the exotic girls I wish I'd dared to
talk to, and the kisses I did steal from the pretty girls who would talk
to me. I'm even going to miss how hot it was at unventilated Al's, which
would turn into a sweat lodge even in winter.
There are no heroes here. Obviously the soulless bastards at Magnum
Properties have no idea what they possess or how to take care of the
treasure they've inherited. I've even lost some respect for Marc Kreisel,
who threatened to arrest any of his former customers who looted mostly
worthless souvenirs from the club on its sudden, final night (it's time to
give a little something back, Marc). Mostly I'm mad at YOU -- and all of
us -- who didn't storm the barricades and take over the building, like
squatters would in Europe. There never was a real Al at Al's Bar, but if
there were, I'd be mad at him too for not saying something to save the
place. What a dive. (Falling James)
(A much-condensed version of this obitchuary was published in COAGULA art
magazine.)